Archive for July 30th, 2008

“Big Business” Wines Are Proper and Have No Soul

I was recently inspired by the Sauvignon Blanc episode of Jancis Robinson’s Wine Course on DVD. During the lesson, Jancis traveled to the Loire Valley in France and spoke to its rebel winemaker, Didier Daugeneau “The Wild Man of Pouilly-Fume.”

The things that struck me so much about this interview were these key points that Didier made to Jancis:

Big business wines are proper and have no soul. They are technically correct and well-made, but have no heart, no terroir, no identity.

Wine is more than a drink, when you want pleasure, you drink wine. I make wine to give people pleasure. To me, wine is art and an expression of the artist.

Yes! One of the most attractive things about exploring new wines and regions of my favorite varietals is the excitement of experiencing the winemakers’ individual expressions of it. I am now beginning to understand that the corporate, accessible wines that were a majority of the wines I purchased in the past are drinkable in most cases, but lack the hand-crafted and loving individual elements that I am coming to appreciate and seek out now that I understand how much more soulful and gratifying these wines are.

Have you had a similar breakthrough in your wine appreciation?

PS-Thank you to wine educator Kathleen Lisson for the recommendation of Jancis Robinson’s Wine Course on her blog.

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